RAZNO > MATERIJALI / TEHNIKE OBRADE U MODELARSTVU

Folija za toplu plastifikaciju

(1/1)

nedbojsa:
Prateći razne strane forume primetio sam da je u poslednje vreme postao pravi hit da se Epo modeli i drugi stiroporci delom presvlače folijom za toplu plastifikaciju. To je inače ona folija koja služi za plastificiranje dokumenata, id kartica... moj eksperimet je bio sa folijom od 100 mikrona pošto sam je već imao, U suštini folija koju sam ja koristio je prilično debela i teška, ali za zaštitu stomaka epo jedrilice mislim da je savršena. ljudi masovno presvače stomake modela, napadne ivice krila ili je koriste za ukrućivanje krila. Inače aplicira se bez ikavih problema modelaskom peglom.

Da rezimiramo odnmah dve stvari:
- Prilično je teža od namenskih folija za presvačenje modela
- Nije baš pogodna za presvlačenje modela od balze pošto se ne skuplja kao namenska folija.

Prednosti po meni:
- Solidno je čvršća od namenskih folija
- Praktično je nevidljiva tj. daje glossy sjaj modelu, mada ima i mat folija ali su sve bezbojne.

Kako prvi put radim presvačenje modela uopšte, nekom od folija, plus što je ova debela čitavih 100 mikrona ja sam zadovoljan rezultatima presvlačenja, ima par greškica na trupu ali nije strašno. Ostaje da se vidi kako će se ponašati u eksploataciji no otom potom.

I za kraj jedna slikica jedva je vidljiva folija i lepljena je preko trupa koji je već prošao sve i svašta:

zbabic:
Deluje zanimljivo, za koliko se povecala tezina trupa? Da li se "isplati", tj koliko je trup cvrsci?

Vaci:
Usput i gde se moze naci ta folija? I koliko kosta da uporedimo sa namenskom? Dali se sama lepi tj prijanja za penu prilikom aplikacije?

nedbojsa:
@zabic Iskreno nisam merio ali je svakako teža ako ne zbog ičega drugog onda zbog debljive koja je drastično veća barem u mom slučaju ima folija različitih debljna od 20microna pa na gore.
Čvršči je trup onliko koliko je u banci čvršća papirna kartica posle plastifikacije.

@Vaci Može se naći u knjižarama, fotokopirnicamna, štamparijama kao i radnjama koje prodaju repromaterijal za štamparije http://bit.ly/18AwgR3. O ceni iskreno naisam ni razmišljao niti upoređivao. Naravno da se sama lepi. Postoje dve vrste folija za laminaciju - plastifikaciju folije za toplu i folije za hladnu plastifikaciju. Folije osa kojima sam ja radio su za toplu palstifikaciju imaju na sebi tremo aktivan lepak i zbog lepka su mutne pre aplikacije, međutim čim se malo ugreje postaje kristano prozirna.

Takođe držao sam parče folije oko 24h u 10% nitro goriva niti je folija promenila karakteristike niti je lepak popustio.

Evo jednog teksta na engleskom sa neta a vezanog za folije:


--- Quote ---Enjoy a stronger and tougher plane! - The name 'New Stuff' came from the first folks that started experimenting with laminating film on their planes, they simply refereed to it as the 'New Stuff'. Word got around that this 'new stuff' really made a plane perform, and made it much more crash resistant. Often times we will build an EPP plane without any spars and no tape as we know the New Stuff will result in a very strong and very clean structure. (We do recommend bidirectional fiber tape for combat planes.) Thanks to the tough and flat surface of the film, most planes will enjoy a more accurate airfoil that will perform better.
We like the 5 mil CP film for most normal projects, and the 10 mil CP or the 7 mil DI for heavy planes where we are not as concerned about weight, or just need a super tough skin. The 3 mil is great for molded foam planes with a lot of compound curves, and the 1.7 mil is excellent for super light builds.
New Stuff is flat opaque on one side, that is the adhesive side. To apply, you iron it on, but it is a little different then other iron on films. New Stuff has a very low shrink ratio, so you no longer need to tack the edges and work your way into the center. Just the opposite, take an iron that is about 200 - 250F (hot enough to boil a drop of water on the face of the iron) and start from the center and work out towards the edges. No need to pull the film tight, just remove any ripples and iron it down. As heat is applied, the adhesive will activate and the film will turn crystal clear. Since the film hardy shrinks, no more twisted and tweaked airframes! Most people find New stuff much easier to apply than traditional films.
We stock CP and DI films. Here is a brief breakdown of their differences:
DI Films - This film offers excellent rigidity and goes onto a wing very nicely. DI is stiffer than CP and is an excellent choice for wings. The down fall of DI is that it does not take to tight bends or curves as well as CP films. We really like DI for wings and other mostly flat surfaces. A wing covered with DI will be stronger and straighter than a wing covered in CP Film. DI films also feature UV protection.
CP Films - CP films are the traditional 'New Stuff' and work well for many applications. It works much better than DI films on compound curves like fuselages and wing tips. If you can only have one film, then you probably want the CP film. CP films are more flexible and may be a better choice when extreme crash protection is desired.
An ideal build for a wing would be CP film around the trailing edge and wing tips, and the rest of the wing covered in DI.
1.7 mil CP film weighs .13oz or 3.9 grams per square foot.
3 mil CP film weighs .23 oz or 6.6 grams per square foot.
5 mil CP film weighs .38 oz or 10.8 grams per square foot.
10 mil CP film weighs .81 oz or 23.1 grams per square foot.
3 mil DI film weighs .26 oz or 7.4 grams per square foot.
5 mil DI film weighs .46 oz or 13.1 grams per square foot.
7 mil DI film weighs .68 oz or 19.4 grams per square foot.
We get a lot of questions about putting the films onto wooden airplanes. We do not recommend it for this use, though a strip of 7 or 10 mil film on the bottom of a wooden fuselage makes for a great landing skid. We have also laminated thin balsa with the film and resulted in very strong structures. We commonly wrap our elevons on our combat wings with new stuff. But it would be very hard to wrap an open structure wooden plane, the film will stick to the wood but it will not "tighten" onto the structure like other films.
--- End quote ---

tataBulik:
Odlična ideja za ojačavanje djelova modela.

Radio sam plastificiranje (dokumenata) sa više vrsta pomenutih folija. Ima ih različitih debljina. Ono što je dobro je da ima sloj ljepila na obije strane pa se dvolisnica može dobro iskoristiti.
Termički je stabilnija od monokota, ali je ipak duže izlaganje temperaturi deformiše - skuplja (to sam otkrio kad mi se jednom prilikom zaglavila između valjaka laminatora).

U svakom slučaju, dobra ideja.  (pijemo)

Navigation

[0] Message Index