Mašala Nedane!
Razrada motora je od PRESUDNE važnosti za karakteristike i dalji rad. Ovaj postupak je sa sajta Gassermana, koji se bavi konverzijom glow helikoptera na benzin. Sam postupak je dat konkretnao za Zenoah motore od 23-26cc, za prvih par rezervoara, ali se komotno može primeniti za bilo koji benzinac:
Conditions: Needle set up by maker: HIGH open one turn exactly LOW open 1and 1/4
Gass Natural 95
Oil Castrol Power TTL look here
First tank: - At low RPM 3000 ended with very short test of max RPM Exactly 8000 during 5 seconds.
Second tank: - Started at 3000 RPM after one minute tem 60deg
- Speed up to 6000 RPM, after 2 minutes temp 90 deg, slowed down to 3000, takes 4 minutes! to cool down to 68 deg
- Speed up to 5500 RPM, temp holds 85-87 deg, than cool down to70 takes 3 minutes.
- Speed up to max open throttle 8100 RPM temp raised in 15 seconds to 90, released to iddle, temp jumped to 107deg than takes 3 minutes to coll down to 80
- Speed up to 5500, run rest of tank on temperature close 90 deg.
- When tank almost empty, last test run - full throttle for few seconds, max RPM 8250. So is 250 more then when first tank finished. temperature raised
quickly to 100deg. Slowed down, cooled to 80 and stopped.
Conclusions: NEWER - start the engine and pull full power, let the engine warm up at iddel at least half minute.
NEWER - run the new engine in heli directly. As you see the results above, is impossible to run im the engine during flight. Is so easy to cook up the engine.
IMHO the proper run in process of engine is most important thing for whole life of engine. If you fail at this point and let the engine overheat once, it will pass away
shortly.. Learn here how to do properly or let the process do somebody who have experience.
NEWER - fly until fuel tank is empty. But always land and let the engine at least half minute cool down and than stop it. The worst thing what you can do to your engine is to run out of gas, let the engine take gas mixed with air => lean it up run in high RPM and then stop it by it self
Setting up the standards. In order to maintain proper communication with all buyers and developers, I have to set the temperature measuring point for the engine. Regarding the experience
with previous conversions, IMHO the best and most accessible place e what I fount is the first rib from the top of engine head.
Posle toga se razrada može nastaviti po priložanom uputstvu za motor. U svim uputstvima koje sam do sada imao prilike da pročitam (DA, ZDZ...), za razradu su navedeni, manje više, isti postupci. Sažeto to izgleda ovako:
1. U toku razrade koristiti obično mineralno dvotaktno ulje;
2. Tokom razrade motor treba da radi uglavnom na srednjim obrtajima. Nikada ne držati maksimalni gas duže od 10 sekundi. Koristiti za broj manju elisu od preporučene;
3. Razrada na stolu treba da traje dok se na auspuhu pojavljuje crno ulje (treba potrošiti barem nekoliko litara goriva);
4. Finalno podešavanje L i H dizne treba raditi tek nakon razrade na stolu. U principu, podešavanjem (L dizna) se treba postići da na ler gasu smeša bude što bogatija, a da motor trenutno reaguje na dodavanje gasa. Na maksimalnom gasu podešavanje (H dizna) se vrši tako što se smeša osiromašuje sve dok raste broj obrtaja, pa kad se postigne maksimalan broj - dizna se vrati za 1/8. Time se postiže da snaga bude skoro maksimalna, ali da smeša ne bude prviše siromašna jer će se motor pregrevati i brzo ispustiti dušu;
5. Nakon razrade na stolu, razrada može da se nastavi u letu, ali bez predugog forsiranja;
6. Motor je potpuno razrađen i postiže maksimalnu snagu tek posle dvadesetak sati razrade.
7. U daljoj eksploataciji koristiti što kvalitetnije sintetičko dvotaktno ulje, u razmeri koju preporučuje PROIZVOĐAČ ULJA.
